This article is part of a series.
- Part 1 - The Hunter S. Thompson Board -- Arduino Mega Mini
- Part 2 - My Eagle PCB Walkthrough
- Part 3 - Mega Mini Motor Shield (M^3)
- Part 4 - My Eagle PCB Walkthrough
- Part 5 - Populating and Programming and APM
- Part 6 - This Article
- Part 7 - Incomplete Works
- Part 8 - HM-10
- Part 9 - Jot
- Part 10 - Homemade Pulse Sensor
- Part 11 - ATtiny Adventure -- I2C on ATtiny 84/85
- Part 12 - ATtiny Bitsy Spider
- Part 13 - Kobold
- Part 14 - Scarab
- Part 15 - The Valdez Mutant -- LPC1114 QFN
- Part 16 - Lab Controller PCB
- Part 17 - Lab Controller v05-09
- Part 18 - Robber Board
Originally posted on www.letsmakerobots.com
I’ve waited to finish incorporating my Raspberry Pi into my bot for an ample bit. But since I know so little about electricity, I swore to myself I wouldn’t add my Pi to my bot until I was absolutely sure I wouldn’t fry it.
Well, I’m still not “absolutely” sure, but I feel this little optoisolator has brought me a lot closer. This builds on my post a week or so ago about making Eagle parts.
I plan to actually list out what tweaks a Wheezy image needs to get this optoisolator build to work. It’s actually pretty easy–but whatever you, don’t be lured in by quick2wire. Those buggers wasted most of my day :(
If anyone has questions let me know.
Oh, one note. When I populated the board I used 4.7k resistors on the Arduino side, but I pulled off everything on the Raspberry Pi side. It seems the Pi has built in pull-ups that do the job rather well.
Hope everyone is well :)